FasTags » FasTags

Power Outtage Thursday 11-18

FasTags® Staff — Thu, 18 Nov 2010 02:38:17 +0000

Hi Everyone. We’ve been informed that there will be a power outtage in our area for most or all of Thursday, November 18th, 2010. We’re very sorry that we will be unreachable by our standard phone number and fax, since no power means no phones, fax, or Internet. Hopefully, if you are trying to reach us, you will pop on here and find our note. If so, you can reach Roy at roy.fastags@gmail.com or by phone at 714-365-9530 and he will be able to assist you with pretty much anything that you need. Thanks so much for understanding.

Special QuickBooks Credit Card Processing Deal

FasTags® Staff — Mon, 28 Sep 2009 07:38:25 +0000

If you are thinking about processing credit cards for the first time, just setting up your first business, or looking to process credit cards through a different credit card gateway, you way want to take a look at Intuit Payment Solutions, the makers of QuickBooks. They have a special deal that we can offer to our customers and friends that may make it especially interesting.

Intuit Payment Solutions allows you to process payments directly through your Quickbooks program, which makes life especially easy. You don’t have to fill out anything by hand, the computer will process everything and record the payments directly into your Quickbooks program. It’s so easy to use!

By mentioning FasTags, you can save on your set-up fees and more!

Simply call 1-800-601-3751 and give them the following information:

Our Company: Project FasTags, Inc
My name: Cynthia Kirkeby
Our phone number: 714-633-0100

This will give you some serious savings:

No set-up fees
No application fees
AND not service fees for 2 months!

Don’t delay, start saving money and selling with the help of QuickBook’s Intuit Merchant Services now.

How to Feed and Care for Orphaned Kittens

FasTags® Staff — Thu, 27 Aug 2009 15:36:32 +0000

photo courtesy of Mitch Diatz - CC 2.0

Over the last 15 years, I have raised nine orphaned kittens. Four of them were two weeks old when their mother was killed; three others were only hours old when their mother died; two more kittens fell out of the nest in our barn when they were only a day old. Raising motherless kittens is not a difficult process, but it does require patience, time and plenty of TLC.

Here are some tips to help you raise your orphaned kittens:

Make a nest.

Normally, a mother cat spends many hours a day in the nest with her kittens, which helps her babies stay warm. Keeping the kittens warm is important because if they’re not warm enough, they won’t want to eat, and in fact, all of their bodily functions will slow down.

To keep your orphaned kittens warm, make a nest in a small box and line it with towels or old t-shirts or sweatshirts to help the babies conserve their body heat. Put a towel over the box to keep out the light. Female cats choose nests that are dark. If you don’t have a heat lamp, use a small 40-watt desk lamp and place it several feet above the box to help keep the kittens warm.

If the box is big enough, you can also use a jug or another large container filled with hot water to keep the babies warm. Place the jug in the box and then make a nest with towels beside it. Refill the jug when it cools off. You can use a quart jar as a “hot water bottle” too except that a quart jar cools off very quickly.

Use an eyedropper or a syringe to feed the kittens.The first time I raised orphaned kittens, I discovered that the small nursing bottles available at vet clinics were too big. The kittens couldn’t get their mouths around the nipples. So, at first, for newborn kittens, I used an eyedropper. As the kittens grew bigger, a syringe worked very well, the kind of syringe for giving injections (without the needle of course!). I started out with the 3 cc size and used larger syringes when the kittens grew bigger. The tip of a syringe is about the size of a cat’s nipple, and my kittens eventually sucked hard enough on the end of the syringe to draw the plunger down by themselves. Check with your vet clinic to see if any used syringes are available or to see if you can buy new syringes from the clinic.

A word of caution: Whether you’re feeding with an eyedropper or a syringe, be careful to give only a few drops at a time. My veterinarian told me that if the kittens were given too much formula at once (more than they could swallow), they might inhale it. Inhaling formula will make your kittens much more susceptible to pneumonia.

Along the way, I have also discovered that it is best to feed the kittens as much as they want to eat. They will settle down and sleep until the next feeding if they are getting enough to eat. Tiny kittens will start out taking maybe 1 CC at a time. As they grow bigger, they will eat around 12 CCs at a time (usually in several different helpings).

Kittens learn very quickly that food comes from the syringe you hold in your hand. If you are having trouble getting them to take the formula from the syringe, let nuzzle in the palm of your hand for a few seconds or let them suck on your fingers. Then introduce the syringe and let them suck on it while you very slowly press the plunger down.

Feed the kittens KMR or kitty formula that you have mixed yourself.KMR, the canned cat milk replacer, is available at most vet clinics in either a premixed or dry form. It is specifically formulated for kittens to provide all the nutrients they need. Follow the directions on the label. The amount to feed is determined by body weight. My newborn kittens weighed three ounces each, and for the first several days, they only needed a half an eyedropper of KMR at a time.

My vet clinic also gave me a recipe for “kitten formula.” After the first can of KMR, this is what all of my kittens have been raised on.

Here is the recipe for Kitten Formula

1 cup whole milk
1 tablespoon white corn syrup
1 egg yolk
a pinch of salt

Mix in a blender and mix it up far enough in advance so the bubbles will have time to dissipate.
Warm over medium heat. Heat the formula so it feels slightly warm to the touch. All of my kittens have refused to swallow the formula if it was too cold or too warm. The same was true for KMR.

Feed your kittens on a regular schedule three times a day.Mother cats nurse their kittens every couple of hours. The veterinarian I consulted cautioned me not to feed them that often. “They won’t eat well and you’ll get frustrated and they’ll get frustrated and it will be harder on everybody,” he said. He was right. Feeding the kittens three times per day worked out very well.

Groom your kittens with a warm, wet washcloth and help them to empty their bladders and their bowels.Young kittens are unable to empty their bladders or move their bowels, so you’ll have to help them. Use a warm, wet washcloth and wipe under their tails until they have emptied their bladders and/or moved their bowels. Be prepared to use as many as four washcloths for each kitten. If they only have to empty their bladders, you won’t need that many. If they have to empty their bowels, look out — it could get messy! Smaller washcloths that you can wring out with one hand while you hold onto a squirming kitten with the other work best. I put the washcloths in a pail of warm water and put the pail where I can reach it easily.

Young kittens also do not know how to groom themselves, and after a day or two of eating kitten formula, they become sticky from the formula that inevitably dribbles down their chins. From time to time, use a warm, wet washcloth to wipe off the formula, but be careful not to get the kittens TOO wet or it will be hard for them to stay warm.

Provide a litter pan when they’re four weeks old.Cats have a strong instinct to use material that they can scratch around in when they have to empty their bladders and move their bowels. By the time the kittens are four weeks old, they will already be thinking in this direction and providing them with a litter pan will help them get the idea. You might still have to assist them with a washcloth for a while, but it won’t be long before they are using the litter pan.

Kitty litter in an aluminum pie plate works well to start out. As the kittens grow bigger, use a bigger container for a litter box.

Start feeding solid food when the kittens are about six weeks old.Kittens that are raised by their mothers probably will start eating sooner than six weeks, but you will be able to provide more milk than their mothers would have available.

When your kittens have gotten their teeth, you can begin feeding them solid food. If you want to feed dry food, a good quality kitten chow will work fine. Kitten chow has all of the nutrients and protein that they need to keep growing. Kitten chow also is made in tiny kitten-bite-sized pieces. To tempt their appetites and to give them a “treat,” you can also try a little canned kitty food. Be sure to provide fresh water for your kittens to drink, as well. And until the kittens are eating solid food regularly, supplement their caloric intake with kitten formula. By this time, you won’t have to feed them with a syringe. You can put the formula into a small saucer, and once they discover where it is and what it is, they will drink by themselves.

Be prepared to be surprised and amazed by your kitten.

Kittens grow very quickly, and on some days, you will think they are growing right before your very eyes.
Kittens get their eyes open when they’re about 10 days old.
They will start purring when they are as young as 6 days old.
Kittens will start other “kitty behaviors” such as shaking their heads, attempting to groom and lifting a hind food to scratch behind their ears when they are between two to three weeks old.
Young kittens will sometimes get the hiccups (!) while you are feeding them.
Young kittens are like baby humans, in a way. Their days consist of eating, sleeping and emptying their bowels and bladders. After the kittens have gotten enough to eat and have had their bodily functions taken care of, when you put them back in the “nest,” they will sleep or rest quietly until you are ready to feed them again. If they are restless and crying and meowing, they might need a little more to eat, or they might have to empty their bladders or move their bowels, or they might feel cold.
As the kittens grow older, they will be awake for longer periods of time and will eventually start playing with each other.
By the time the kittens are four weeks old, you will most likely have to move them into a bigger box, if not sooner, because the first one will be too small and they will know how to get out on their own!

If you have any questions concerning the raising of orphaned kittens, you can e-mail me at bigpines@ruralroute2.com

LeAnn R. Ralph is the author of the books: *Christmas in Dairyland (True Stories from a Wisconsin Farm)* (trade paperback) and *Preserve Your Family History (A Step-by-Step Guide for Writing Oral Histories)* (e-book; 66 pages). To read sample chapters and to sign up for the FREE! monthly newsletter, Rural Route 2 News & Updates, visit — http://ruralroute2.com

Disaster Preparedness for Pets

FasTags® Staff — Wed, 26 Aug 2009 22:21:36 +0000

Hurricanes, floods, wildfires, hazardous material spills; disasters can strike anytime, anywhere. If you think you will never have to evacuate unless you live in a flood plain, near an earthquake fault line or in a coastal area, you may be tragically mistaken. It is imperative that you make preparations to evacuate your family and your pets in any situation. In the event of a disaster, proper preparation will pay off with the safety of your family and pets.

Brisk in Slidell - Photo by DiveOfficer/Flickr

If You Evacuate, Take Your Pets

The single most important thing you can do to protect your pets is to take them with you when you evacuate. Animals left behind in a disaster can easily be injured, lost, or killed. Animals left inside your home can escape through storm-damaged areas, such as broken windows. Animals turned loose to fend for themselves are likely to become victims of exposure, starvation, predators, contaminated food or water, or accidents. Leaving dogs tied or chained outside in a disaster is a death sentence.

If you leave, even if you think you may be gone only for a few hours, take your animals. Once you leave, you have no way of knowing how long you’ll be kept out of the area, and you may not be able to go back for your pets.
Leave early; don’t wait for a mandatory evacuation order. An unnecessary trip is far better than waiting too long to leave safely with your pets. If you wait to be evacuated by emergency officials, you may be told to leave your pets behind.

Don’t Forget ID

Your pets should be wearing up-to-date identification at all times. It’s a good idea to include the phone number of a friend or relative outside your immediate area; if your pet is lost, you’ll want to provide a number on the tag that will be answered even if you’re out of your home.

This is a great time to use your FasTags® to ID your pet!

Find a Safe Place Ahead of Time

Because evacuation shelters generally don’t accept pets (except for service animals), you must plan ahead to ensure that your family and pets will have a safe place to stay. Don’t wait until disaster strikes to do your research.

Contact hotels and motels outside your immediate area to check policies on accepting pets. Ask about any restrictions on number, size, and species. Ask if “no pet” policies would be waived in an emergency. Make a list of pet-friendly places and keep it handy. Call ahead for a reservation as soon as you think you might have to leave your home.
Check with friends, relatives, or others outside your immediate area. Ask if they would be able to shelter you and your animals or just your animals, if necessary. If you have more than one pet, you may have to be prepared to house them separately.
Make a list of boarding facilities and veterinary offices that might be able to shelter animals in emergencies; include 24-hour telephone numbers.
Ask your local animal shelter if it provides foster care or shelter for pets in an emergency. This should be your last resort, as shelters have limited resources and are likely to be stretched to their limits during an emergency.

If You Don’t Evacuate

If your family and pets must wait out a storm or other disaster at home, identify a safe area of your home where you can all stay together.

Keep dogs on leashes and cats in carriers, and make sure they are wearing identification.
Have any medications and a supply of pet food and water inside watertight containers, along with your other emergency supplies.

As the Disaster Approaches

Don’t wait until the last minute to get ready. Warnings of hurricanes or other disasters may be issued hours, or even days, in advance.

Call to confirm emergency shelter arrangements for you and your pets.
Bring pets into the house and confine them so you can leave with them quickly if necessary. Make sure each pet and pet carrier has up-to-date identification and contact information. Include information about your temporary shelter location.

Make sure your disaster supplies are ready to go, including your pet disaster kit.

In Case You’re Not Home

An evacuation order may come, or a disaster may strike, when you’re at work or out of the house.

Make arrangements well in advance for a trusted neighbor to take your pets and meet you at a specified location. Be sure the person is comfortable with your pets, knows where your animals are likely to be, knows where your disaster supplies are kept, and has a key to your home.

If you use a pet-sitting service, it may be able to help, but discuss the possibility well in advance.

After the Storm

Planning and preparation will help you weather the disaster, but your home may be a very different place afterward, whether you have taken shelter at home or elsewhere.

Don’t allow your pets to roam loose. Familiar landmarks and smells might be gone, and your pet will probably be disoriented. Pets can easily get lost in such situations.
For a few days, keep dogs on leashes and keep cats in carriers inside the house. If your house is damaged, they could escape and become lost.
Be patient with your pets after a disaster. Try to get them back into their normal routines as soon as possible, and be ready for behavioral problems that may result from the stress of the situation. If behavioral problems persist, or if your pet seems to be having any health problems, talk to your veterinarian.

Evacuation Planning:

You may not be in a flood zone or have to flee wildfire, but even a hazardous material incident on a nearby street could force you to evacuate. It pays to be prepared!

Disaster Supply Checklist for Pets

Every member of your family should know what he or she needs to take when you evacuate. You also need to prepare supplies for your pet. Stock up on non-perishables well ahead of time, add perishable items at the last minute, and have everything ready to go at a moment’s notice. Keep everything accessible, stored in sturdy containers (duffel bags, covered trash containers, etc.) that can be carried easily.

In your disaster kit, you should include:

Medications and medical records stored in a waterproof container and a first aid kit. A pet first aid book is also good to include.
Sturdy leashes, harnesses, and carriers to transport pets safely and to ensure that your pets can’t escape. Carriers should be large enough for the animal to stand comfortably, turn around, and lie down. Your pet may have to stay in the carrier for hours at a time while you have taken shelter away from home. Be sure to have a secure cage with no loose objects inside it to accommodate smaller pets. These may require blankets or towels for bedding and warmth, and other special items.
Current photos and descriptions of your pets to help others identify them in case you and your pets become separated and to prove that they are yours.
Food and water for at least three days for each pet, bowls, cat litter and litter box, and a manual can opener.
Information on feeding schedules, medical conditions, behavior problems, and the name and number of your veterinarian in case you have to board your pets or place them in foster care.
Pet beds and toys, if you can easily take them, to reduce stress.

Other useful items include newspapers, paper towels, plastic trash bags, grooming items, and household bleach.

Other Evacuation Tips

All mobile home residents should evacuate at the first sign of a disaster.

Evacuate to the safest location you can that’s as close as possible to home. Long-distance evacuation can be a problem when highways are crowded.

When planning for hurricanes, identify your evacuation zone and level to determine if and when you would have to evacuate. Be prepared for one category higher than the one being forecast, because hurricanes often increase in strength just before making landfall.

Your local humane organization or local emergency management agency may be able to provide you with information about your community’s disaster response plans.

Source: The Humane Society

Travel Memories At Christmas

FasTags® Staff — Tue, 25 Aug 2009 22:44:09 +0000

Dealers: Print out this FasTags® worksheet and make it available in your store, or include it in your next mailer to your customers.

Download the PDF document: Using FasTags® While You Travel Has a Bonus at Christmas

Embellish Your FasTags®

FasTags® Staff — Wed, 27 Feb 2008 16:08:14 +0000

This craft sheet leads customers through different ways they can embellish their FasTags® to make them uniquely theirs. Add rhinestones, glitter and more, to make your FasTags® ID tags fun and sparkly. Download it today.

Download your PDF worksheet on Embellishing Your FasTags®

Project Worksheet - Embellish Your FasTags®

Family Motor Coaching Magazine

FasTags® Staff — Mon, 26 Jun 2006 04:07:16 +0000

Family Motor Coaching Magazine featured FasTags as an essential for travelers in their June 2006 issue. Read why below:

Our thanks to Family Motor Coaching Magazinefor introducing us to their readers. For subscription information please visit Family Motor Coaching Magazine’s website.

Cover Magazine Highlights FasTags

FasTags® Staff — Wed, 26 Apr 2006 05:31:17 +0000

Cover Magazine highlights FasTags ID tags as a fresh new way to do identification tags for pets, luggage, and more.

Press clipping on FasTags® -Cover Magazine

Download a copy of the PDF article on FasTags®

Remember to Tag Your Holiday Pet Instantly – AKC Standard

FasTags® Staff — Mon, 26 Dec 2005 05:56:42 +0000

The AKC Standard carried this article on using FasTags during the holidays to ID your pet and reduce the likelihood of having them lost during the busy holiday season.

Visit the AKC Standard website for information on training your breed of dog.

Cat Fancy Editor’s Choice Award

FasTags® Staff — Wed, 26 Jan 2005 06:22:20 +0000

FasTags® was a Cat Fancy Magazine
Editor’s Choice Award winners in December 2004!

Below is an enlargement of the FasTags® editorial award.

Visit the Cat Fancy Website for articles and subscriber information.